Dienstag, 3. November 2009

The Vienna Fiaker




No matter how heavy the traffic in modern Vienna, there always is room for the horsedrawn cab known as the Fiaker. The German word " Fiaker’ refer to both the two-horse cab itself and to the cabby, who is generally dressed in pepita-check trousers, a velvet jacket and derby hat.

Once the fiakers were Vienna’s taxi transport, but today they are mostly popular for special ceremonial use and as a tourist attraction. Fiaker ranks are near the Imperial Palace, the State Opera and beside St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The well-kept vehicles and their picturesque drivers add an attractive bit of color to the Vienna street scene.
The fiaker cabs have a long history, which is recorded in the Fiakerhaus, a building that has belonged to the profession for a century. It now houses the fiaker museum and is located at Veronikagasse 12 in the 18th district.
The fiaker cabby has long been a respected person. In the museum, for instance, there is an oil painting showing the famous Aschenbrunner driving Czar Nicholas I of Russia through the gates of the Ballhausplatz in a fiaker.
The name fiaker actually comes from Paris, where cabs for hire were lined up outside the Auberge Saint Fiacre, an inn whose portal was decorated with a painting of the Irish monk, St. Fiacrius.
The system of putting cabs for hire was introduced there in the 17th century by Nicole Sauvage, and before long, cabs were plying for trade in cities all over the Continent. Elsewhere, other names were developed for cabs, but in Vienna they have always been called fiaker.
The first Viennese fiaker license was issued in 1693 during the reign of Leopold I. It specifically forbade cabbies to undertake journeys of more than four miles out of the city. Not until 1822 was this strange restriction lifted, but even then, no traveler could hire a cab without presenting proof of identity. There were other rules too. For instance, no passenger was permitted to carry a torch or lamp through a town or forest unless it was extinguished.
Every applicant for a fiaker license had to show that he had been in the transport trade for several years and that he knew how to drive. He also had to own a reasonable amount of property and be of good character. At the same time, he was not permitted to be associated with any other form of commerce, and he was exempted from military service. Clearly, driving a cab was considered a position of great responsibility and importance. Widows of cabbies were permitted to carry on their late husbands’ business, to which they could take full title.
If a cab owner refused to accept a fare, he was liable to 48 hours behind bars. An employee was punished ten lashes with a birch branch. Smoking during a journey was forbidden. Overcharging was punishable by confiscation of the fee plus a 5-guilder fine or by 24 hours in jail for a cab owner - or a birch whipping of an employee.
Until the introduction of fiaker cabs in Vienna, the normal way of carrying Viennese who did not own a carriage was by sedan chair. The traditional cry of " Trag ma Euer Gnaden? " ( " May I carry you, Sir ") is still the fiaker driver’s announcement of the availability of his cab.
Since a ride by a fiaker was anything but cheap, it was seldom used by ordinary Viennese. Realizing this, an enterprising citizen named Zeisel put covered coaches with benches for 20 people into service. These coaches were inevitably nicknamed " Zeiserlwagen " and represented the first attempt to provide a means of mass transport for the public. Eventually, these were replaced by horse-drawn and then electric streetcars.
Today, a traditional use of the fiaker by the Viennese is at Confirmation, when youngsters are brought from St. Stephen’s to the Prater amusement park by horse-drawn cabs. They are frequently used to transport wedding parties.
A fiaker ride is almost obligatory for the visitor to Vienna. Each cabby is well-versed in local history and is always delighted to tell visitors stories of the buildings they pass on their horse-drawn tour of his beloved city.

13 Kommentare:

  1. I was looking forward to a ride in a fiaker when I went to Vienna recently. However, I must say that I was quite disappointed with the condition of the horses. Most did not look in peak condition, shall we say, and a lot just looked utterly dejected. I didn't bother having a ride in the end, I just spent a few moments with some of the horses and tried to brighten their day by being kind and saying a few words.

    The more I see of the tourist carriage trade, the less I like it...

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  2. Sorry you had that experience. I find that, like the carriage rides in Central Park in Manhatten, some fiaker's and their horses are taken excellent care of and some not so good. I make a point of choosing a well cared for turn-out and telling the uncared for ones why I won't ride in theirs. I have taken many friends visiting NYC on carriage rides and do the same there. Should you see a serious problem, both have associations that oversee them and you can make a complaint. Though I do find that Vienna responds much more quickly than NYC.

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  3. ah, the joys of the "Pony and Tourist Trap ! " The second time I went to Vienna many many moons ago I made a promise to myself to have a ride in a Fiaker past the SRS.....twenty odd visits later, I still haven't done it and I don't think I will. Like Lipizzan, I have to say hello to them, especially the ones by the Dom, even when their owners get sniffy with you when they realise you only want to stroke them. I did however take a Fiaker trip in Salzburg, which was quieter and less traffic, pulled by two sweet Haflingers.

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  4. I don't really like how they treat their horses, though I did it once on new years eve. Great fun!

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  5. oh gosh, to be in Wien for Silvester !!! Ok, I know you live there Hausi, ......sigh - I'll have to make do with my New Years Day "addiction" to the Konzert from the Musikverein ! If Rod ever tells you that I get tears in my eyes when they play Blue Danube...believe him.

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  6. I think that the condition of the Fiaker horses has acutally improved somewhat over 15 or so years ago. Like Karen, I've never taken a fiaker ride and I always look at the horses and check their condition. In recent years, we saw fewer thin horses (ribs visible when they moved) and fewer lame ones. Lame may be too strong a word as the things I saw could have been gait abnormalities from old injuries but I doubt that they all were.

    The other thing to remember is that not all the fiaker drivers are really horsemen. Some years ago, I spoke to the manager of one of the stables for fiaker horses out in the Prater. He told me that he had to train 40 - 50 new drivers every year. So, they may not realize when a horse is slightly sore.

    I also TOTALLY agree that the fiaker horses in Salzburg looked much better. I didn't see one thin or lame horse when we were there. The difference was really noticeable. I suspect that the fiaker drivers in Salzburg owned their horses and may have been familiar with horses before they started driving fiakers.

    The New Year concert is an annual ritual at out house. Unfortunately, the ritual has only been to watch it on TV rather than at the Musikverein! I hope to be there in person at least once in my life! OTOH, here in Seattle winter is not so cold as in Wien!

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  7. In Paris gab es zuerst diese Mietdroschken. Sie standen in der "Rue du Fiacre"- das war ein schottischer Mönch, nach dem die Kirche in der Strasse benannt wurde. Da Wien und überhaupt die Modewelt sich schon lange an Paris orientierte,
    übernahmen sie den Pariser Namen.
    Die Szenerie hat hervorragende Charaktere hervorgebracht mit Stolz, Ehre und Standesbewußtsein, das in den Ausschnitten des unten stehenden Liedes zum Ausdruck kommt.

    Heute ist es hauptsächlich Geschäft. Ich fuhr mal mit einem, der mir erzählte, er hätte seinen Beruf als Metzger aufgegeben, weil er nun mehr verdient.

    Vorgänger war der Tragsessel, von zwei Menschen getragen und das " Trag´ma, Euer Gnaden?" wurde später das "Fahr´n ma, Euer Gnaden?"

    Wiener Fiakerlied

    I führ´zwa harbe Rappen,
    mein Zeug dös steht am Grab´n,
    a so wie dö zwa trappen
    wer´ns net viel g´sehen hab´n,
    a Peitschen a des gibt´s net
    ui jesses nur net schlag´n....

    A Kutscher kann a jeder wer´n,
    aber fahren kinnans nur in Wean.
    Mein Stolz is, i bin halt an echts Weanerkind,
    a Fiaker, wie man net alle Tag find´t,
    mei Bluat is so lüftig und leicht wie der Wind,
    i bin halt an echts Weanerkind!.......

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  8. ja ganz bestimmt saust "Hausi" vom Musikverein in die Oper, zwischendurch ins Café Schwarzenberg, wenn er nicht gerade mit Beethoven im Ohr die Mozartkugeln verschlingt, um als nächstes in die Sezession zu hechten, stolpernd über Fiaker und Touristen, schnell weiter zum Walzer linksrum nach Hietzing, um dann endlich bei Hawelka sich an Buchteln um 22 Uhr zu laben...Leute, auch die Wiener haben ihren Alltag, der organisiert werden muß und auch mal grau sein kann.

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  9. I've never taken a ride in a Fiaker and I don't plan to. I saw an accident one summer evening when the horses took fright, the carriage turned over and one horse broke a leg. In the years I've been going to Vienna, it seems to me the condition of the Fiaker horses has deteriorated. I don't think the trade is as carefully regulated as it use to be. The carriages often look overloaded and some of the horses are painfully thin and unkempt. They work very long hours in extremes of heat and cold. Watching them trot full-tilt on the hard roads and slither over the uneven cobblestones makes me wince.

    The Fiaker seem somewhat better regulated in Salzburg where most drivers use sturdy Haeflinger or heavy cart horses (very handsome). They usually amble round at a walk - much safer and better for the horses.

    And for those morose remarks I'll probably get squashed by a runaway team on the Habsburgergasse, one of these days ...

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  10. Wiener Zeitung Schlagzeile:"Na prack!" Paeroa schlagen von wütenden Fiaker; Fahrer behauptet, "Paeroa, ist ein Kren dazugibt."


    zerwuzeln :-))))))))))))))

    Romy

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  11. its ok, they'll have to knock down both paeroa and I....

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  12. Wiener Zeitung Schlagzeile:"Na prack!" Paeroa schlagen von wütenden Fiaker; Fahrer behauptet, "Paeroa, ist ein Kren dazugibt." Sein Komplize, Basowizza packt die Pferde und eilt sie in Sicherheit.


    LOL :-)))))))))))))))))))

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  13. I did take a ride in a carriage in Banff, Canada on honeymoon. That's the one and only time I have done it, it was a beautiful draft horse, very nicely cared for with a really friendly and competant driver. She was telling us how the horses only work a small number of hours per day, you could see the horse was sound, healthy, happy and enjoying his work. I didn't have a horse and carriage at my wedding so this was my treat on honeymoon. :-) As well as the ride on horseback round the local trails...

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